Boric acid solutions on kiln dried logs....is it worth it?????

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Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 20, 2008 at 9:41am

It is very important to make sure you SANATIZE and PRESERVE your logs against becoming a food source for insects, fungus, and decay. You are correct that you have had your wood sanitized by having it kiln dried. However, unless you apply a preservative (commonly a borate product) your logs could become the target of something wanting to use it for lunch.

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Permalink Reply by Dianne on August 23, 2008 at 10:22am

As I said elsewhere, I favor having the borates applied prior to delivery. I feel that "pressure treat" is the key word. Those borates need to be absorbed deeply into the logs.

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Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 28, 2008 at 7:40pm

I couldn't agree more with Dianne. Pressure treated wood is the ONLY way to sanitize and prevent reinfestation in your log home. The borates are a natural, and clear product, that leaves the natural look of the wood for you to stain and seal over later. Most companys that pressure treat also offer a warranty against rot, decay, and insects. Those that do not pressure treat will not offer this type of warrany. Make sure you look at these services along with the borate treatment.

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Permalink Reply by Joe on August 23, 2008 at 10:38am

From what I have learned the definition of kiln drying itself can vary depending on temperature and time. Some claim to kiln dry right to the core, others to a measured depth of about 1 1/2. This then can have an effect on what is "killed". The important part is that this is about as dry as the logs are going to get and they will start to reabsorb water to balance to outside moisture. Because of this I personally would want the logs treated immediately which would then ensure the whole log gets treated, not just the outside where its difficult to get into the joints once assembled. You can always possibly add more chemical treatment to the stain as further insurance.

Joe

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Permalink Reply by gatorgene on August 24, 2008 at 6:23pm

To continue this, should the interior wall studs, subfloor be borate treated as well?

Gatorgene

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Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 28, 2008 at 7:42pm

Really depends on where you are building. You definately want to use a pressure treated band board on your foundation, and treat the soil before you build. However, formosan termites in the Gulf States of Southern US are very good at getting past exterior barriers and into the inside of your home. I suggest checking your local codes, and take a look at common building practices in your area.

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Permalink Reply by Joy Mulkern on August 24, 2008 at 8:53pm

Some companies, Barna for sure, both borate dip before they ship the logs to you as well as provide and additional borate product, Penetreat, to apply again on the outside before you apply your exterior stain. Don't skimp on the borate and your logs should last forever.

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Permalink Reply by gatorgene on September 1, 2008 at 7:25pm

Do you need borate on Cypress? I dont know of any Cypress manufacturers that pressure treat with Borate. Comments?

Gator gene

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Permalink Reply by Kevin on September 16, 2008 at 4:44pm

All Log species are vulnerable to wood boring or consuming insects. Some are more naturally resistant than others. If you are building in an area with a known insect problem (termites or carpenter ants) then there are preventative measures to reduce or eliminate that threat. Concrete exposure is one. Pretreating the soil around the foundation is another. Logs dipped or sprayed with borates are one thing, but what about other wood products around your log home that were not treated with a borate solution. Additionally, factors controlling borate concentration in the core of the log or board are: species, preservative, loading, diffusion time, and green moisture content. If a log is not allowed to be immersed in a borate solution of the proper concentration, at the proper temperature, for a long enough period, the expected level or longetivity of protection may be much less than anticipated. I would suggest taking the same precautions as you would on a conventional home to guard against insect damage. I do not think I would purchase a log home package based on the borate virtue alone. A truely kiln-dried log will be free of insects, which is the primary reason for borate treatments. I believe a more reliable approach to preserving a log home is in prevention and proper maintenence of the exterior, to protect it from the potential damaging effects of the sun, moisture (mold & mildew), and insects.

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Permalink Reply by Philip Sanders on December 15, 2008 at 5:06pm

Just what is a truly kiln-dried log? There's the rub...different companies do the kin-drying differently....be careful in the advise you give others....it's not necessarily true across the board. Researching how the kiln-drying is done per each manufacturer is just as important as researching how each company Borate treats their logs....brushing, dipping or pressure treating. In my experience, pressure treating with borates means that the borate is completely dispersed through the entire core and surface of the log, meaning it has been sanitized of insects and their eggs and long term protection from future wood digesting insects and also borates prevent fungus from growing in the wood pores thereby no mold or mildew and no rot or decay. Borates do gravitate toward moisture which is why the entire log has been penetrated with borate when it has been pressure treated....as the log reaches equilibrium with the environment, losing moisture to the atmosphere, the center of the log is still wet. therefore the borate will travel on it's own to the center. This is also why it is very important to seal the outside of house with a good quality stain sealer to prevent the borates from leaching out. This is alo why you don't use a borate treated wood for ground contact...once the borate is gone into the ground...it's lunch time for insects and fungus.

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Permalink Reply by gatorgene on November 15, 2008 at 3:21pm

Ive read where pretreated borate can be washed off by the rain prior to staining and sealing the logs.
Thus, more confusion. Do you pressure treat alone, or redo the surface once the logs are erected?
Gatorgene

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Permalink Reply by David Reed on January 1, 2009 at 9:23pm

I recommend always using a borate treatment (Penetreate is what i use, however there are several good products out there) after you clean the logs from construction and immediately before staining. At the VERY least, it will not hurt and can only help. I spray both the interior(if at all possible) and exterior.

Dave Reed
Log Home Finishing

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