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Sanding and staining logs interior/exterior

Help please. When getting the exterior logs ready to stain, do you scrub with bleach , power wash, then oxalic acid then power wash and then re-bug and then stain. If so what is the waiting time between each steop.

Can you sand the interior logs with a palm sander without hazing the wood for a coat of stain?

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Permalink Reply by Ted on September 5, 2008 at 7:46pm: I don't know much more than you do but I read in one of our groups emails that they got a lot of support from Perma Chink. You might want to look them up on the internet and contact them.
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Permalink Reply by Joe on September 6, 2008 at 10:49am: Ray,
First of all Ted's advice was good, talk with the stain companies. Other advice would be to always wash from the bottom up when using any kind of chemicals to avoid "bleaching streaks" if you go from the top down. Add a little Spic and Span or very little kitchen detergent to the tank water to allow the water to "wet out" and help the water break through the surface tension of the dirt.

Palm sanders come as square pad units and orbital units. I would recommend you use an orbital unit (not just circular) with vacuum holes in the pad and sandpaper. Buy the hook and loop type sander not the glue on. Buy a 100 pack of 80 to 100 grit sand paper as you will need it. A big trick is to remove the sanding dust container and duct tape a small diameter hose to the sander from a lower horsepower shop vacuum to it. Beg, borrow, steal etc as much hose as you can and put the shop vacuum outside to keep exhaust dust from reentering the house as the filters still let some dust through. Using this system will keep the entire job site extremely clean and allow the sand paper to last longer and do a better job. The hose is a little bit of a pain but well worth it. You will not raise the grain on logs but will really smooth them nicely. Let the sandpaper do the job by not forcing down on it.

Tack rag the logs as stain but if the logs snag the rag then at least use a vacuum brush hooked to the shop vac as you go. If your first coat raises the grain on the logs and you don't want this then lightly sand again with 100 to 150 grit to smooth them. You can use a much courser grained sand paper without leaving swirl marks with an orbital sander. I would not buy the cheaper sanders for under $50 as the hook pads seem to be of poor quality. Good units can be bought for around $60.00 to $70.00 and come with the dust collector. There are 5 hole and 8 hole units and different diameters so match the sandpaper.

I would also buy a good quality 4 inch brush designed for the type of stain you are using and always take your paint from a paint bucket so that the dirt you pickup doesn't contaminate your gallon of stain. Never pour the left over back in the gallon can.

As a teenager I trained with some very thorough German house painters (I suspect they were ex Nazi's the way they treated us). When painting regular walls they always used REAL powdered TSP in the cleaning water to wash the painted walls as it etches and dulls the paint to make for great adhesion. I would not use this on log walls though. Never use it when it might run down on other painted surfaces as it will dull them.

The nice thing about logs is they hide the flaws.

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Permalink Reply by Ray Mazza on September 16, 2008 at 11:05am: Thank you; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Terry Tadysak on October 2, 2008 at 2:07pm: I performed extensive research on interior and exterior stains. ( I interviewed several U.S. Forest Products Lab PHd's (wood experts) and studied the Texas A&M report/study on over 200 exterior wood stains.) I created a " How to" instruction sheet. If you would like me to e-mail a copy to you let me know. My choices are as follows:
1. Clean new logs with X-180 made by American Bldg. Restoration 414-421-4125( This product will take green treated deck boards and in 10 minutes make them look like store bought new 2x4's that will stain up very simlar to the logs.) You spray on with garden sprayer and garden hose wash off after 10 minutes or so. This is NOT a bleach. Bleach based products will damage wood fibers.
2. Treat logs inside and out and all new lumber with Tim Bor or Borada-D "http://www.doityourselfpestcontrol.com">www.doityourselfpestcontrol.com, This is Borax salt in dilutable form you spray on with garden sprayer and let dry. They ship free and prices cannot be beat. Treats insects, mold, mildew, wood rot. - safe and extremely effective.
3. Exterior: TWP Cedartone 101made by Gemini Coatings 1-800-262-5710. ( about 30.00 per gallon ).This is an oil based semi transparent stain applied with a 2 gal garden sprayer then back brushed with a 6 inch Beest Bristle brush then applied 20 min. later same way - always from the bottom up. This stain lightens with age and when re-stained it returns to original color - does not get darker. This is NOT a coating stain. Coatings will trap moisture. They look good initially but your logs will rot in time as you will be trapping moiture. NOTE: you must use an oil based cault to chink or caulk the exterior logs as water based will not hold. Wait until your log moisture level is 15% or below. Buy moisture meter at Harbor Freight Tools for $35.00.
4. Interior: Velvit Oil 75% natural #200/25% Golden Honey # 161. Mfg will mix and ship. They are located in Appleton, Wisconsin. ( I would NOT use this product on exterior !. ) Wait 3 weeks or so then apply MaxTech water based polyurethane satin finish to interior logs. No blotching - looks fantastic.
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Permalink Reply by Terry Tadysak on October 2, 2008 at 2:16pm: If you would like a copy of my " How to do" prep and stain instruction sheet please provide your e-mail address or fax number.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Tom Heatherington on October 2, 2008 at 2:30pm: Hey Terry, I'd like to have a copy of your " How to do" prep and stain instruction sheet. Please email to editor@logcabindirectory.com

Thanks,

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Permalink Reply by Terry Tadysak on October 2, 2008 at 3:29pm: I sent it to your e-mail address.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Ton on October 3, 2008 at 10:00am: hi ,i like to have a copy , the house is to dark { teak } i like to take t all off and put a lighter stain over t ,the inside is never done , so work enough ,thanks
tondebets@hotmail.com
or fax 1-506-357-3426 ,thanks again; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Jeff on October 3, 2008 at 12:56pm: Hello Terry. I'd also like to get a copy of your "How to Do" prep and stain instruction sheet. My email address is: JefferyPitman@earthlink.net

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Permalink Reply by Marla on October 4, 2008 at 11:55am: Hi Terry, I would also like a copy of your instruction sheet please. Our email addy is knight90@telus.net
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Permalink Reply by Dave Dupee on October 5, 2008 at 11:05pm: Hi Terry

I would appreciate a copy of your "How to do" prep and stain instruction sheet. Please e-mail to dupee_d@hotmail.com. Any thoughts on Saver Systems log stain?

Thanks,

Dave Dupee; ▶ Reply to This