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I am about 5 weeks away from staining the exterior of my log home. I have been told not to stain the inside until at least one heating season goes by. Is this true? I want to stain right of way on the exterior but how about the inside should I use clear or use stain?

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Ray,
I'm building a log home now and I'm under roof. My contractor washed and bleached the interior logs back in June and we are still waiting for the logs to dry to apply clear coat. To much humidity up here in Maryland. Moisture content, in the logs, has been above 20% and must be below 15 to apply the clear coat. If not, the clear coat will trap moisture and the logs will cloud up under the clear coat. Just be aware of this if you bleach and clean the interior walls.

Not sure about the "one heating season" that you mention. I do know that the first season of heating, the logs will check and crack. This is inherent in log cabin construction and if you don't like checking....then you won't like a log home.

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I would not recommend 'bleaching' logs. Bleach can damage the wood fiber surface. See my suggestions on wood prep by providing me with your e-mail address and I will send you some suggestions. Beware of any product that 'clear coats' your exterior logs ! You want a penetrating stain that allows the logs to breathe after staining. Oil based stains will want less then 15 % moisture content for best results. Buy a 35.00 moisture meter from Harbor Freight Tools and test your logs. If you are not getting to 15% or lower in moisture level perhaps youyr roof over hang design is allowing too much rain to wet your logs during rain fall. if your overhang is little you may need to shield the logs with plastic to bring the moisture levels down. The plastic should not be in contact with the logs further trapping moisture.

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in my opinion you want a stain that protects the outer part of your logs,if the stain
penetrates into the log your outer part of log will not be protected very well,by using
perma chink systems stains they form a film that protects the log from water or
anything else that trys to pentrate.all our products of waterbase products.also easy
maintance when using perma chink products.our stains allow the wood to breathe
and let moisture out.

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Terry
Thanks for the great information. I am building a log home and the selection of a coating is really quite difficult. Please send me your how to sheet and let me know how the coating is holding up on houses that have used your method. I have spoke to about 30 owners that have used a range of products but no one is really happy with the results over time. I do realize that a log home will be more work and that recoating is necessary. I just want to get the correct product on first. I find that talking to people that sell products vs the people that have the product yealds two different answers about the quality and lifetime of the product. My logs went up about a year ago and are reclamed logs so they are very dry. I live in Southern Oregon and it is really dry as well if that is a consideration. I also have Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF's) for my basment. Do you know if any of the coatings will damage ICF's? Thanks in advance for your help.

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Dan - I'm with Sashco and, while I could go on and on about how great our stains are, I would also have to tell you this: while the stain you use is important, it's not nearly as important as the prep that is done to the wood prior to staining. You could have the "best stain" on the market and it will only be as good as the prep done prior to staining. If you can, find other log homes in your area that are holding up well and see if you can talk to their owners about the type of prep they did. Educating yourself on the prep of the wood is going to be your the most important piece of info you'll need prior to staining.

If you have questions about this, feel free to email me at cbabcock@sashco.com. We have an educational booklet called "Keeping the Dream Alive" that goes through the process of finishing a log home from beginning to end. It is NOT a sales pitch piece - simply education in nature.

Thanks! And good luck with your log home!

-- Charis

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Brent -
Have you got any dehumidifiers running in the house? I would get a few and run them on different levels. I don't know how much water was used, but that WMC level seems high. How are you testing it? Moisture meter? We have one if you don't and would be willing to swing by and give you a reading if you like. We are in Maryland also. Let me know.
Beth

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Please provide me with your e-mail address and I will send you my 'How to do' sheet on my suggestions. The exterior staining will be the most important choice. I can also give you some sound suggestions 9 and photos to show you the results ) for interior stains and varnishes.

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I would appreciate any guidence on interior stains

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I would recommend a waterbase interior stain,and if possible try to get one with a little
of tint in it.clear interior could have a picture affect when moving pictures around the house
because clear has no uv protection.so if using a clear coat I would add uv boost to product.
interior finishes are mostly for odors and makes dusting the logs easier.if any questions you
can call me at 800-548-3554 Thanks

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Please send me your How To sheet of staining suggestions. I am using an oil-based stain and a clear topcoat. I had a hard time finding advice from anyone before I started but would be happy to receive yours now.

Marty

email: mch2oinhi@yahoo.com

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Terry, I am interested also in your "How to do" sheet. My email address is: thompsonc13@cox.net

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Terry,
I would like your "how to do" sheet. email is: ddecker@sound-impressions.com

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