This weekend I tried blasting off a portion of our log home with success. We are planning to blast with crushed glass and then refinish it. My question is, what about the log ends? The log ends are dark with the previous stain (Sikkens) and there is some old caulking on parts of them I'd like to remove. I can scrape off the old caulking, but was wondering if it is a bad idea to blast the ends? I was just thinking that the crushed glass might get forced into the more porous ends and cause a bigger problem. Has anyone done this or what would the recommendations be for refinishing the ends? (See attached pic)
As for the eves, they are in good shape and I was thinking about leaving the underside without refinishing them. They would be a little darker than the stain we are planning on using, but if they are in the shadows the majority of the time, would it matter?
Kai - Don’t use the media blaster on the log ends - you’re right the media will be forced into the ends of the logs and it won’t do near as good a job as an angle grinder. Use an angle grinder first with a heavy grit disk pad and quickly finish off with an orbital sander with a 60 grit pad. Make sure to saturate the log ends while you are staining your house. I have used the airless sprayer and have injected the stain into the log ends while brushing the excess stain to avoid drips. This process as well as the use of the Weatherall UV Guard Stains has worked well form me in the past and keeps the log ends from turning black. You can follow this link for more information on quality stains.
If you have questions on application - send me an email and I would be happy to assist you.
“The Leading Distributor Of Log Home Products”
Thank you for the reply! I will check into that method, thanks!
Log ends are always a challenge because the grain is open and therefore can absorb water easily and they typically extend beyond the roof line and are more exposed to the elements. Saturating them with stain will certainly help prevent issues from occurring. You could also use just the clear topcoat if you don't want to darken the ends any further. In addition, there must have been some issues in the past that caused the homeowner to do the caulking. You could always try to match the color of the wood more closely so the caulk doesn't show or you could use clear. Check out this link for a great color selection.
Also, you asked about the eves and whether they needed to be done. That is a personal preference. Because the direct exposure to the sun is limited, they have a tendency to maintain their finish better. One test you could do is to spray them lightly with a "spritz" type water bottle. If these areas bead like a waxed car then the finish is still good. If the water looks to be spreading and penetrating a bit then you might consider a clear coat.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Thanks, I will try the water bottle and see what happens
Kai - I think the Log Monster was demonstrated in Zero Failures. That would be a great tool to use on the log ends. As Brian mentions, make sure you investigate the purpose behind the caulk. Could be they were just sealing a few cracks here & there. No biggie. Hopefully it wasn't a rot fix. Cobra Rods may be a good idea in this location, depending on the exposure of those log ends.
And no need to re-do those eaves. You can leave 'em as-is. If they're not shedding water, a quick application of a clear coat will do the trick. Make sure whatever clear coat you use is compatible with the Sikkens that's on there now. You'll need to do a quick brush-out to find out. If the new clear coat wets the surface and dries clear, you should be good to go.
Glad to hear the blasting went well. Looking forward to seeing pics as you go along!
-- Charis w/ Sashco
I don't recall them showing us anything about the log ends. I will have to check into the Log Monster you are talking about. The caulking is mainly the stuff the original builders put between the logs to seal them and since then this stuff has squished out of the cracks. It is some type of yellow caulking compound that remains gummy. The previous homeowner added a fair amount of silicone to several of the cracks as well, which I am no removing all of it. I have not noticed any rot yet. I will check into the clear coat for the eves.
We don't get to do much hands-on with log ends...not enough time in 2 days. :-) It's discussed in class a bit. Silicone is hard to remove anyhow, so good call not removing all of it. Just be sure that you widen the joint a bit so the caulk will be sticking to silicone-free areas. It won't stick to the silicone itself.
Glad there's no rot. That makes life easier.