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We have the cabin done and now we want to biuld a car port.  I have acres of cedar...big stuff.  I woul dlike to build the car port out of these tees and think it would look cool.  Any advice on how to do it?  I cannot find resources on use of whole tree trunks as corner posts for the builing, rafters, etc. 

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I just finished building a small tractor port for my tractor off my storage shed.  I used log rafters, 2 x 4 purlins and metal roofing.  Used a harborfreight (around $20) beam maker on my chainsaw, to slab side a main carrying beam (around 22' long).  I used two cedar trees which had a natural crotch as posts, and leveled the carrying beam in the crotches (they are about 3' in on both sides), and bolted them there with 1/2 galvanized all thread.  I then used small cedar tree tops (around 4") as bracing.  I screwed the log rafters to a ledger on the side of the building and then to the top of the carrying beam.  Instead of cement piers,  I just dug in and used chimney blocks so the posts could be inserted like a mortise and tenon, and packed with gravel so they would drain good.  If I decide to do piers later...I can cut the posts off and fill the blocks with concrete and bolt the posts to them.  

I also used white cedar posts for my porch and used small cedar logs for joists.  I sawed the small cedar trees on two sides ( 6" ), using the beam maker jig  on my chainsaw.  This made them relatively flat so I could nail the decking etc. for the porch.  I cast piers for the cedar trees, and again used the beam maker to make the carrying beams (34' long pine). 

If I can get some photos of the lean too tractor shed I will post them....cold today -14.

I am sure you will get more input from others.

Here is a quick pic of a crotch post I used on the front porch.


Very cool. How did you peel the logs?  Pressure washer?

I just hand peel the of the best tools we have found,  believe it or not, is the little T handle screwdriver that comes with Husqvarna chainsaws.  :)  They peel a lot better when the sap is running though, comes off in big long strips (they used to use some of this for Adirondack siding I believe.

Also I stained them with eco wood treatment with a bit of brown tint / paint.  Used a sprayer....did the barn too. is a few pics of the lean 2 style tractor port off the side of my little storage barn.  Of course a free standing car port you would need to roof truss it or do a ridge and rafter roof.  But might give you ideas.  WQhen I sawed out the main beam, I had a 2 x 8 or so slab left which was around 22' I cleaned it up a bit with an adze, and then used this for the ledger which is attached to the little barn (screw into the studs).  I then notched the logs a bit to sit on top of ledger and screwed them in as well.  Very simple to construct.


Nice Good Job!


Your building gives me ideas for the car port, but also to add on to a barn I have that could use a tractor shed.  I plan to shamelessly imitate yours as it is just what I need. Thanks for posting those pictures, they really help.

Good  luck!

The great thing is, a green tree only shrinks in diameter, extremely minute in length, so your good on settling using green trees, we used about 21 green cedars to support my wrap around porch trusses with a huge post beam on top of them, , my biggest challenge was leveling the post bottoms, we braced the tree vertical with 2x4's and got it as plumb as we could by eye, then took a short piece of scrap 2x4 on the level surface it was standing on and traced with a marker around the irregular trunk base then layed the tree on saw horses and took a skill saw at max depth and cut along that line and axed out what we could then chainsawed the rest of the core off the bottoms, then dragged a straight edge across bottom looking for high spots and shaved any off with the skill saw wide open like a shaver, we ship lapped the post beams where the joints where on tops of post and before the two pieces of the ship laps were joined together we drove a huge lag bolt through one beams lap joint down into the top of the tree and then finished the lap joint with the other beam, feel free to browse my pics, may not be scientific aproch but it works well, if your not totally confused by now, it was a learning curve for I was a newbie once too, I preferred not to notch my trees around my beams so i used a 6x10 post beam and the cedars fit under the beams perfect, most people use a 4x12 for a post beam with all the down pressure from the weight of the roof, hence the 12",. High wind up lift did concern me so I toe screwed 12' screws thru the support post under the deck into tree bases,  if you pour footings I would set a huge 12-16 inch lag plumb in the concrete and screw the tree onto it then use some construction adhesive with that, IMO, Good luck

I would love to see some pictures of what you built.  Pictures seem to really bring a concept home for me.  The leveling of the posts is my biggest concern as well.  I read with great interest how you handled the issue.


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