Hi All. I have taken the LHBA class in the US and I live in the United Kingdom.
The method is I think the best way to build but I would love to find out the views
of others. Looking at some comments on this web site it is obvious that some
are saying things without ever checking their facts. If you have not taken the class you do not know about the method.
The LHBA method of building a Log Home is as far as I can tell:-
1 The strongest
2 As cheep or expensive as you would like to make it
3 Lasts the longest
4 Fast to build
5 It is not an insulated wooden shed it’s a real Log building.
6 Built from real logs not planks of wood or dowels. (If it looks like a tree trunk it’s a log if not it’s just wood). Trees do not come with flat tops and bottoms.
7 Eco friendly
8 Easy to build
9 It cannot be built as a kit
It seems to me some do not like this method as it’s built by
you and not a builder so they do not get your money.
I suppose many will not like my comments so all I can say is:-
Log Homes are fantastic if built correctly and the LHBA method I think is the
I have been with this blog almost since it's inception and have never seen anything negative about LHBA. Unfortuantely the LHBA website is loaded with negative comments about commercial suppliers of log homes. As discussed in other blogs here, negative selling turns people off. I won't bother in going down your check list but many of the claims are not true. One small point is the butt and pass method is used by many in the industry and is a good method for fast construction but I never saw an old log home built this way. They used a dovetail construction which essentially did not require nails or screws and push come to shove would be the strongest.
Good luck on building that log home.
I cannot comment on what the LHBA organizers say all I can say is what I think.
Do you think there is a better method that a person that is not a builder can use to construct a Log home that will last a life time with little maintenance problems?
What method do you recommend and why?
In my opinion dovetail corners are the tightest, with minimal maintenance.
It is important to not screw, or dowel the corners because this will lead to shrink back and open up the corner.
Hope this helps.
Just a few comments from someone that has built a log home...
Strongest? I have 63 very large logs that are held together with over 900 pieces if steel. It may not be the strongest, but it ain't weak.
Last longest? I don't think anyone really knows. I have pictures of dovetailed homes in Pennsylvania (over 200 years old) and I have heard stories of B&P homes (Pinned with Oak) in Europe that are over 1000 years years old.
Fast to build. The logs can be lifted and stacked with a boom truck. I completed stacking my logs in 12 1/2 days. A neighbor did the same in 10 days. I have reports that logs lifted and stacked and the roof (using sips) can be completed in less that 2 weeks.
Built from real logs.... Green logs work best!
Eco friendly... Generally the logs are green (not processed in any way, other than pealed and borated) and local.
Easy to build. Nothing is easy about logs. It takes real skill to notch logs.
Cannot be built as a kit. Kits are built in a log yard, disassembled and transported to the home site and reassembled. LHBA homes cannot be disassembled - ever. It is almost impossible.
Some comment have been made about the strength of the corners of the LHBA method. There is a general rule to build windows and doors at least 4 feet away from a corner. This allows the pinning of the logs to each other to insure the strength of the corner.
My last comment... Some folks don't like home that have chinking in them. They use the word chinker like it is an expletive. CHINKER! I happen to like horizontal lines with round logs. With my 9 layer chinking and insulation system, I have a system that has not required any maintenance in 4 years. I doubt that it will require any maintenance in my lifetime...
I don't believe the LHBA way is the best, but it has been very good for me. I have a video that is very interesting IMHO.
David, Spoken like a true disciple....and I agree with most everything except the NO maintenance.....green logs shrink......concrete/mortar does not...what "exactly" are you going to do with the inevitable "gap"? IF you let the logs shrink away from the mortar and there is a gap.....however miniscule....how do you prevent the water from getting inside the logs? Ever heard of capilliary action? The mortar will crack and moisture will be sucked in....I have inspected many old logs homes chinked with mortar that have rotted due to this action. You have a grand home in the photos and 4 years is hardly a lifetime to attest to the longevity of this method. Talk to me in 20 years. I have been doing this for 32 years now and my first homes are still standing....will yours?
Tim, I misspoke...
What I meant to say is the chinking (the mortar its self) will not need repair. However I do insert a latex product (log jam) to seal the cracks that occur when the logs shrink. I have done this to my interior logs and the latex product works really well... The exterior will happen next year... Because of my design (nine layers) even when the logs shrinks, there is no infiltration...
This log home was built my me and my sons, with out a loan and is debt free...
I had a friend that built in 1992 and his chinking remains intact.
Skips home was built in 1972 or there about and the chinking remains intact...