Carpenter Bee season is coming up.
Carpeter bees are large (1 inch) yellow and black bees which become active in early spring. They resemble bumble bees but do not live in colonies, have fewer hairs and no pollen sacs one the hind legs. They appear around homes and are a nuisance. Although it is rare to be stung by one, their sheer size is scary and people stay clear of them.
Their nest is much more of concern. These nests, if left untreated, will result in extensive structural damage and will result in costly repairs within a few years.
The female will go in and out of the nest so patience will show where the entrance is. Killing the individual bees with a liquid insecticide will not destroy the bee's young.
THE NEST MUST BE TREATED!!!
BIOLOGY-- Carpenter bees get their name from their ability to drill through wood and nest in it. Their drilling will create a near perfect hole approximately 1/2 inch in diameter. This hole usually located on the underside of any wood surface including logs, siding, soffits, overhangs, deks, fence post, facial boards, and window frames.
Although the hole appears to be only and inch or two deep, it doesn't end there.
The female will turn 90 degrees and bore a channel from 6 inches to as long as 4 feet.
The channel serves as a main corridor form which she will drill small chambers a few inches deep. These chambers become egg holders. She will deposit and egg, bring some food, and then seal it off to ensure the egg's development.
The male spends most of his time flying around the nest playing guard. This is ironic as nature has left him ill prepared; he has NOT STINGER! Only the female can sting. Simply killing the male will not solve your problem.
TO ELIMINATE CARPENTER BEES YOU MUST TREAT THE NEST.
Treating the carpenter bee holes is simple, easy and safe. The best and most effective product to use is DRIONE DUST, and a Crusader Duster. If you are appling yourself please use goggles, gloves, and a dust mask. You can also call a pesticide company in your area to also come and treat the holes.
We hear all kinds of stories how people kill them.
Badmitten racks, baseball bats, tennis racketts.
We had a grandfather who paid the grandkids a quarter everytime they killed a Carpenter Bee! HA HA
Trying to help the consumer out there!
I have been fighting these carpenter bees for years, this year Iam trying carpenter bee traps, available on ebay and film footage on you tube shows how they work, I have learned a few things, my log home is ten years old and still dripping sap, I find the bees are not attracted to the logs themselves (too much goo and sap) they are attracted to my soft pine tongue and groove soffits under the roof overhang and cedar trim. I have yet to find a good pesticide that works well and I have tried many. They are also attracted to the hottest portions of the roof soffit. The black smooth larger female does the drilling and can sting, the male however is smaller and has fur acts very aggresive but has no stinger so you can forget about him,he also does not drill. They both are slow flyers, with a gallon sprayer you can pick them off in mid air, but I have yet to find a pesticide that really works, in fact one exterminater advised me to double the dose of cyphomethrin due to thier hardiness against pesticides. I have yet to see one actually drill into a log, though homes made of cedar or cypress may not be as sappish.With the traps you get them before they drill your home. Here in Michigan they are only active for about two weeks on hot days in Spring....... Hope this helps Regards Don
Iam working on a pharamone recipe (that i got from a beekeeper) to get them to the trap faster. Will let you all know how this works out, Carpenters have not showed yet here. Regards Don
I would like the recipe to your carpenter bee's
Hi Kelly. the pharamone recipe goes like this according to a beekeeper I spoke with....10 drops lemongrass oil, 5 drops geranium oil, 1 drop lime oil. He said this generally works for all bees that are pollinaters.... I'm assuming your using a carpenter bee trap that is hung (covered) under your eaves and roof soffits. I was told the bee trap should be stationary and not moving.(Wearing rubber gloves...these oils are very potent) Using a cotton ball, saturate it with the oil and staple near the entrance of your carpenter bee trap. Beekeepers place this in the hive to make the bees work harder sensing pollen that is not there.I found these items at a local health food store for about 10.00. Carpenters have not shown up here yet in Mi....but I know they are coming....Iam also using Bayer termite and carpenter ant killer in a liquid spray, but don't spray near your traps..... Best Regards Don (you can see the traps on UTube and buy them on Ebay)
Thanks Don for sharing. Will have to try this!