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carol Hughes

Fiberglass chinking soaks rainwater into house. How do I clean and dry?

Recently, we purchased a 25+ year old log cabin near Fairbanks, Alaska. This summer, I decided it was time to re-oil the outside logs. But when I got to looking closely at the logs, I was astonished at the poor shape the logs and chinking are in!! The old stain looks like it ran when they put it on, some of the logs are totally gray, and the chinking between the logs is actually fiberglass insulation material. Everything I read said to clean the logs first, but if I use a log cleaner, the fiberglass will get wet and soak through to the inside.

Here is the new discussion. Yesterday, after it rained and rained for 36 hours, I decided to check the logs. It was then I realized that a crack in the gutter caused water to drip and splash onto the logs right beside my bedroom wall. The insulation wicked the water through causing some mold/or mildew under the carpeting. Evidently, this has been an ongoing problem, but I'm just now figuring this out. First, I realize that I must fix the gutters. That should stop the splashing water. But how should I clean the insulation between the logs. Should I spray Oxiclean on that spot and hope that it seeps through the logs and kills whatever mold or mildew is there? Should I seal it up on the outside with Permachink and on the inside? And if so, how long would I have to wait for it to dry?
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Carol -

Here is the short answer: if at all possible, avoid doing any sort of wet cleaning. Unless you pull that fiberglass "chinking" out of there, you're right - the water will soak right through it. Then if you cover it up, it may not dry and could lead to mold, mildew, rot - yuck!

The best way to go about prepping this home would be do do a dry blast with either corn cob media or crushed glass media. Both will remove the old stain, get rid of graying wood, and take you back down to clean, fresh wood, which is where you want to be to get a fresh start. The media will leave behind dust that will need to be blown out of the cracks and checks, but that's easy to do with the air compressor you'd use for the actual blasting.

From there, it would be best to stain first, if the stain (log oil) you're using is compatible. Check with Permachink on compatibility, but if it's compatible, you'll get a better bond of the chinking to the stain than the chinking to bare wood. After staining, you should then go through and tape over the fiberglass insulation with clear packing tape or duct tape and chink over that. Chinking and caulking should be the last things you do, again, so long as the log oil/stain you're using is compatible.

I have a booklet I can send you called "Keeping the Dream Alive" that goes through the steps of finishing a log home from beginning to end. Shoot me an email at cbabcock@sashco.com and I'll get it going your way.

Thanks, and good luck! -- Charis with Sashco

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Charis B is absolutely correct in suggesting a dry method for cleaning the logs. I am partial to cob blasting not only because that is what we do, but because you don't have to worry about moisture getting in and rotting stuff. One thing to be aware of though, you will get dust in your home. Given the "high quality chinking" you have, I'm sure there are some cracks where the dust will come through. However, its light and easily vacuumed up. Good Luck!

-Jason
www.cobblastmaster.com

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Thanks so much for your response!I would like to ask another question: How would you keep the insulation "chinking" dry while you stained the wood? I was planning on spraying the stain onto the logs, and that would certainly get the insulation wet. But, even if I used a brush to put the stain on the logs, the oil still could penetrate the insulation, couldn't it? I would try to be as careful as I can, but...
Could I put clear packing tape, masking tape or duct tape over the insulation now before I stain the logs?
I sure am grateful for your help! Thanks! Carol

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Well, here's the thing: you probably couldn't stop the stain from getting on the fiberglass and it would indeed penetrate it some; however, it wouldn't soak in & fester like water. Hopefully the stain you've chose is somewhat breathable, meaning it will continue to allow moisture vapor to escape the logs, as well as cure itself. Once fully dry, though, your fiberglass shouldn't be affected a whole lot.

If you're using a stain high in wax content, you may be out of luck. I would actually encourage you to stay away from anything high in wax content simply because it can interfere with the other finishing products (chinking & caulking) that you have to use, even if it is applied after chinking or caulking is. Some oil-based stains are just fine, others aren't. So be sure to check out that compatibility.

Once the stain is dry, then you can go through and tape over with the clear packing tape or duct tape. It should stick sufficiently well for your short-term purposes of covering it up with chinking.

Hope that helps!

-- Charis

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P.S. I should let you know that fiberglass insulation isn't not the most interesting "chinking" I've ever seen. We have pictures of a home that has some Fruit of the Loom chinking.....that's right - they stuffed some underoos in there for chinking. :-)

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No Kidding!!?!! Wow! I think that might win the prize for the most unique Insulation!!

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