Joe has asked in another thread how much an average log costs. That thread seems to be going off topic so I'll answer with a new one.
The attached picture shows the average logs we use. About a 15" mid span diameter and various lengths but on average around 40'. You can see that they are very straight, few knots and low taper.
They cost me about $220 each as they sit in that picture. If they had just gone to the saw mill they would have been worth less than half of that.
So when you ask about average cost it really varies. A hand crafter who buys top quality logs like these will probably pay a similar amount. A manufacturer who mills into rectangles then adds a profile, or turns it round and smaller and often delivers short lengths can buy a lesser quality and so pay a lot less.
Khita Log Builders Ltd.
It's amazing to me that logs of the quality that you show are available still. Down here in Florida a typical 40 ft piling with a 12 inch max base costs $750 to $1000 installed. They hammer drive them down about 10 foot to 15 foot into the bottom on the East Coast. On the West coast they can sometimes water jet them down to that depth in the sand. They typically last 20 to 25 years when they final rot at the tide line. They drive them in small diameter down.
I suspect when the log companies cut the logs to form the rectangular log form sometimes called Genesis or the D log they are able to use the removed sections to form log siding etc. The log home industry is really facinating in what it can do with a natural product such as this and the improvements over the years in construction. Let's all look forward to a better economy, TN is calling for me.
Thats probably treated pilings?
You got to pay alot more for treatment.
I know the pole treater in New Bruswick or Nova Scotia will sell the raw pine (red and yellow I think) for around $150....but that was a couple years ago.
But of course after they treat the pole...your probably looking at $500 plus for a class 6 treated pole.
Lots of logs like that around here and with the good sustainable forestry practices we have there will be for a long time. British Columbia is bigger that Texas and most of it is forest. The only problem is getting them sold to me instead of being run through a saw mill or chipped for pulp.
Khita Log Builders Ltd.
Yeah....the shipping must be really hurting you folks too.
Pay attention. I stated in the first post the cost as you see them. That is at my yard. What does shipping have to do with anything? That cost is already included.
Okay...the boys I work with have a saying; "not alot of gray matter there".
Bob....it costs alot to ship a handcrafted log home in todays market.
How do I know?
Because I have priced it.
Okay.....stumpage has gone down alot.
I had some very nice pine logs (nice straight 14-16" diameter), which fetched from $400-$500 a 4 axle straight truck (pulp loader type).
Thats roughly 20 tons.
The cutter takes them to the mill and thats what he gets for them, then he takes his cut, and I am left with the gleanings.
So you can figure if if I fella could intercept the pulp loader and buy from the cutter...he could get a very good deal on raw logs.
I hated to sell some of these logs...they were pretty clear pine.
But I don't have my own saw mill, and I needed the lot cleared.
White cedar weighs significanly less (maybe 24-25lbs. a cubic foot I am thinking) and is smaller.
Since the market dropped off so bad, alot of the local loggers just chip it for hog fuel....or if I was interested they would sell me some for $65 a ton / tree length.
Use the Butt and then the tops for fence posts.
I have probably two or three trucks loads stascked on my own lot...so I figure I will pick through it and save the biggest for walls, and mill out the rest for decking.
Of course I would rather just have the money to tell the "boys" to build me what I want.
Bob, Nice stuff!!! We pay about the same BUT we are using bigger material with a whole lot more taper and a lot more knots.
You and I are paying about 5.50 l.f. in the rough.
6" X 8" D-log raw material costs about 1.20 l.f. = $48.00/40' plus processing.
White Oak material for dovetail log homes minimum 16" top runs about 12.50 l.f.
I am going to look at some 5' diameter white oak tomorrow for feature posts.
Thats some big oak!
Too bad you couldn't get the "knees" too?
They would make awesome brackets.
Chris, Bob, Shanny, Tim, and others,
Hope we can keep picking your brains as we go. As I keep looking at log construction since I don't have the money to make the next step yet, I keep learning more. One subtle thing I noticed is most "machined" log builders were using 8 x 8 D but brought their low end model prices down by using 6 x 8 D. Tim brought up the new BOCA (?) codes on R factor that is to start in 2012. Is there anything new on this as the current log wall at 8 x8 D would not meet the requirement unless "log mass" is excepted?
Interestly here in Florida where our temperatures can vary greatly each week we see this effect from our block walls (R 6 on old houses). When it gets cold, 40 degrees, the house will stay comfortable for several days but then you start to feel chilly. I know this is caused by the walls cooling down and our bodies start radiating heat to the walls. The log mass theory has me a little baffled in that a south facing wall in cold climates would absorb heat from the sun and then radiate that heat during the night hopefully, but what happens to the walls on the north side? I don't see how log mass comes into play in that case. I had a quasi timber frame in Michigan with a huge southern facing glass wall and we would run the furnace blower all day to circulate the hot air created in that room throughout the house but those north rooms quickly cooled down at night.
I intend to use foam insulation on the inside.
I am slabbing my cedar about 6" thick, and want to do chink style (will scribe some).
The boss doesn't like logs....so I will use about 3" of polyiso foam and then double drywall.
It should be very comfortable.
I am still deciding on what I am going to do.....to go with the small cabin portion which will later become the master(ANTIQUE HEWN CABIN LOOK)...and the add on the timbered section I have hewed out....or if I will go with the bigger design from the start?
Its going to depend I think on what I can "scrounge" for more materials this spring.
I live in Maine and the house I am in now (I built), the north side has smaller and less windows, and Try to locate closets, pantry, and other rooms to buffer the living space.
However foam makes a big big difference in comfort levels.
Also...thats the thing with handcrafted log shells.......they can make them 10"-12" thick for thermal mass purposes.