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Hi, I’m new here.

I’m buying a log home that was built in 1995. It is a 2 story home with about 1150 sf on each floor. The first floor exterior walls are log, built from a kit. The interior walls are all stick built, (2x4s). It would appear that the first floor logs have settled more than allowed for when the interior walls were built. My reason for thinking this is as follows..

The master bedroom is above the kitchen and dining room, on the dining room side the first wall separates the dining room and the bathroom. Above that area in the master bedroom you can see and feel a slight rise in the floor from the exterior wall to the point where the bathroom/ dining room wall below would be. The same issue appears in the hallway upstairs. Under that area there is a hallway leading to the living room. At the end of the hallway on the first floor there are 2 posts that support the ceiling joists. Which again cause the same slight rise in the floor above. If anyone has any thoughts on how to resolve this issue please let me know.

Thank you all in advance.

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If you know who the original manufacturer is, they might have the plans and detail on file and could help with a solution.  If unknown, post a corner picture and city/state and maybe collectively, we can determine who's system it is.

Most manufacturers have adjustable post jacks at top or bottom of exposed posts (covered with trim).  Sometimes these support posts are buried in the interior wall and can be accessed and lowered.  But if everything is built up tight, the "cure" might be worse than the "disease".  


Im wondering if I should just level the floors where needed and call it a day?

If you have a hump or high spot in second floor, and it's been 20 years, sanding it down or furring it up with new finished floor is sometimes the easiest solution.  Or, cutting out the top 3" of drywall on 1st floor partitions to access and lower top mounted screw jacks, then replacing with trim detail after it settles.  

When lowering a post jack, it often takes a few hours or even days to settle down, assuming nothing else is holding it up.  It never goes "thunk" and comes right down.  

Chris, thanks for the input, I had thought about measuring the log wall at a point away from any support and cutting the interior stud walls to that hight.

Also there is a former VP from Lincon Log Homes that lives in my area, I was going to call and get his advice. All first floor walls need to be redrywalled on at least one sid so that part is not an issue.

Builders need to allow for shrinkage allowances for at least 3 years, 5 years even better. Screw jacks either bought or homemade could get you up to speed. What kind of foundation do you have? An excellent book that covers what to anticipate on shrinkage and how professional builders deal with it is the Log Construction Manual by Robert W. Chambers.

Yes, I agree with John Lile, the builder have to give the allowances for a fixed time span, in case of any such shrinking.


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