The Log Home Neighborhood

An online log home community for log home enthusiasts.

Hi everyone,

This is my first post on here! I have quite a lot of work to do on my home and was looking for some advice on my current focus. This home was built by hand by the family I purchased it from, and it was finished back in 2010. Soffits were really only installed on one/one and a half sides of the home, but even when they were they were not completely flush. Naturally, critters moved in. I purchased the home in August of 2016 and we noticed them not too long after and have been dealing with the cohabitation...but we are done with that. We closed up the biggest soffit at the bottom of the gambrel but there are gaps along the other sides of the home and along the top as pictured above where they are still able to get in.

Because of the uneven nature of the logs, has anyone here had experience creating a flush closure? One suggestion I had was to use a chainsaw to create a groove/slot to then run boards into to connect with the fascia.

The logs are too uneven in a bunch of areas to utilize a router, and I might need to completely remove the fascia if I wanted to take advantage of other tools.

Do I need to remove the fascia and redo that whole part of the roof to have it "done right"? I was attempting to avoid that due to the extra work.

And to add a note, I am trying to do all of this as a DIYer instead of hiring a contractor or anything.

Thank you so much!

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Hey A-ron, (Key and Peele reference), lol

Your logs are so uneven you are gonna have to be a chinker. Run a 2x4 cut in half to 2x2 the perimeter of the soffit edge as if you were gonna put standard soffit in. Just screw or nail to logs leaving gaps created by uneven logs. You could shave any irregularly large logs sticking out if you wanted too.   This would be your nailer. Dont cut the gap with a chainsaw. Just leave gap for now. Install soffit as you would normally. Once you get soffit material installed run a piece of cedar trim over the inside edge (on top of the 2x2 nailer and new soffit) on the gaps as close to logs as you can get. Then you can take any of the major stain companies that run this forum and they will set you up with some caulking or chinking to go in the gaps with backer rod. Once its stained it will look worlds better than what youve got and seal out critters.................well temporarily.

The better route is to tear it all out and do it right. Those short overhangs are gonna have you calling somebody like me in the future for some expensive log replacements.

Hope this helps A-ron, 

JD Knight
Guild Log and Timber  LLC

Hey JD,

I am more than ok with the a-a-ron haha 

I really appreciate all of the advice! I can definitely do that a lot more confidently than running a chainsaw as a router...In terms of the overhangs, I felt they were a bit short when I first moved in and glad to hear I wasn't being odd. How far of an overhang would be suggested for a log home? And I'd have to tear off a sizeable chunk of roofing to run proper supports no? I feel utilizing any type of support bracing along the side of the house would ruin the log home look and feel unless I was able to get my hands on some more logs. At that point however I would prefer to call in a professional since I've never worked with logs in that manner.

Thank you!

Ok A-aron Haha, 

When I build a new log home I like a minimum of 24 inch overhangs and as many porch or shed roofs as the Architect can stand. 

Another thing you could do is create shed roof overhangs on the exposed ends. Go up as high as you can on gables  but still maintaining desired width. and install a simple porch frame with r panel galvanized barn metal. When you flash the top side at the roof/gable intersection make sure your flashing angles up as much as you can. Like 12 inches. It will have to be bought at a metal shop like Muller. Then after 12 inch rise bend flashing at almost a 90 degree angle, 1 inch into gable. Then take a skill saw set it to 1 1/4 inch deep and cut a long groove 12 inches up along roof connection to slide the 1 inch 90 bend into. Then caulk with top shelf caulk. You can paint the metal a brown that matches your stain if you don't like the galvanized metal showing. You  dont hardly ever have to stain under shed and porch roofs. It's those exposed areas where the maintenance costs add up. 



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