After lots of reasearch and questions I have begun refinishing my home. It is roughly 2500 square feet of log surface area, and is made from D profile tongue and groove yellow pine logs. It was previously stained with Woodguard and then painted over, and then neglected. Surprisingly the wood is in relatively good condition. I am going to apply Sashco Transformation and will be taking it down to bare wood before applying the stain.
I asked on an earlier post about smoothing out the deep grooving that exists on the surface of the logs, and after rremoving the paint and most of the Woodguard stain I think I have determined what this gooving is. It appears that sometime in the past the logs were blasted with way too much gusto, and as a result there are many surface areas that are very rough and have had small grooves blasted onto the surface of the logs.
I want to take these rough areas down to smooth wood but do not know the best tool to use. Right now I am thinking that an angle grinder would be best, but am unsure of what kind of sanding disks to use, how many I will need, and were to get them. I saw zirconium sanding disks at Lowes that appeared like they would work, but I am unsure if these disks are safe to use on logs.
There are a few locations that are extremely rough and will be difficult to smooth by sanding alone. I was considering using a Wood Shark Grinding Disk for these areas before sanding.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Depending on the depth of the grooves, Osborn cup brushes or 3M/Sashco's Buffy Pads will work to remove that. Both are used on the end of an angle grinder. Work goes pretty fast. The Osborn brushes last a long time.
If you need something a bit more hard, the Log Monster would do a good job.
Hope that helps!
-- Charis w/ Sashco - www.sashco.com - email@example.com
Thanks Charis. You have been extremely helpful and quick to respond to my posts for the last year, which is a big reason I have chosen Sashco Transformation for my stain.
To be clear, my logs aren't just "fuzzy" from the prior blasting job, that are actually roughened to the point were there are longitudinal grooves cut into the logs running with the grain of the wood, most of these grooves are fairly shallow, but there are a large number that are as deep as 1/16 to 1/18 of an inch.
Happy to help, Brett. :-)
It's not the depth so much as the "hardness" of those grooves. Sometimes the raised grooves are fairly soft on top and can be ground down with just Buffy pads, but you never know until you actually put the grinder to the test. In your case, I'd say try both the Osborn brush and the Log Monster. Buffy pads probably won't be aggressive enough. Of course, if you really have to, you can get yourself a shavehook or a log scraper to remove those areas. You would have to follow that with sanding to blend everything in.
Make sure you get yourself a good variable speed grinders - one that will hold its speed when you press down on it for the more aggressive work. Of the 40 or so that we tested, we like the Makita 9565CV. There are other good ones out there, and we certainly didn't test every grinder on the market.
Can you tell me what a Log Monster is or where I can find one online?
Log Monster is a carbide grinding disk. You can pick on up online from Log Home Resource Center: http://www.loghomeresources.com/toollist.html.
I would recommend aluminum oxide sanding disks like this:
You will also need the hook and loop backers to attach to your grinder:
Order a few of the backer disks and probably 100 of the sanding disks. If you have extra just return to Grainger.
Here is the angle grinder which we use. This is the one you want:
The Osborne Brush is not a very user friendly tool to work with and doesn't leave a good finish.
We've used Sashco Transformation 'Log and Timber' Finish exclusively on all of our restoration projects for 10 years now and have had nothing but success!
Here is a photo of Log Home Finishing cleaning logs with the aluminum oxide disks attached to a variable speed angle grinder.... By the way what State is your project in? Do you have photos to share?
Be safe, notice how we wear Dupont full body suits and 3m full face respirators. The old crap you are taking off your logs is nasty and working vertically with a grinder, any number of dangerous things can happen. Tangle that cord or drop the spinning grinder on a body part and you're going to the hospital for sure! Work with a buddy always and constantly check each other!
(970) 368 2308
Thanks Thomas. I live in Oklahoma and hope to have some before pictures posted soon, although they won't look near as nice as the ones on your website.
Observing what I do is my most important tool. The photography helps greatly as an observation tool. I think what sets Log Home Finishing apart from the competition is that we spend more time looking at and studying what we do. Every project is unique and different, so I treat every project as if it were the first one I ever did.
Thanks again Thomas.
I just ordered the three items you suggested (grinder, sanding discs, and hook and loop backer). Now to await their arrival and start to work.
I have a teenage boy helping me so I'm hoping it won't take more than three or four weekends.
I'm guessing the hook and loop disc back up pad you suggested (https://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Disc-Backup-Pad-4ZR42) attaches directly to the grinder you suggested, or is an adapter of some type needed?
Should I buy the Log Monster carbide grinding disk as well (http://www.loghomeresources.com/toollist.html)? I do have some areas that are very rough.