We have a log home that is all log siding on the second floor, real logs on the first floor.
We have chinked our logs on the first floor, but was told not to chink the log siding so the house could breathe.
Need some experts' opinions.
Kim, I didn't realize you had this "D" log profile. Before you chink the whole upper floor, you might try a test area. Two concerns. The wood you are chinking to should be clean so it has a nice surface free of mold/mildew to "stick" to. The second concern is "slumping". Not sure how thick the chinking needs to be to cover the recessed area? Possibility it will "sag" if put on too thick. If too thin, you might see the horizontal line as the chinking shrinks (approx 30%, once cured).
If this log siding profile with lip overhang is same as solid logs that were chinked below, then clean and chink as you did below. Otherwise, you might need some foam gasket applied first and stapled to fill the crack partially and reduce volume of chinking required.
Chris: Yes, I see what you are saying... What we are aiming at is to seal the upstairs,.. so maybe just to caulk the wood, except in places where we need to put in some backer rod and chinking where the gaps are too large for chinking. We do clean the wood before we put in the caulking/chinking. Then hopefully there will be no slumping.
When we were looking to build a log home, we came to Heathwood and looked at the model homes. They are fabulous, but we could not afford one. We love the grayed out wood.
Ok! We are going to caulk/chink the upstairs. Thank you again.
Based on the photos you provided I would seriously recommend that you caulk the line with a 3/8” - ½” bead of acrylic caulk. You may need to install some backer rod in some areas where line opens up too much usually beyond a ¼ of an inch. Otherwise I would clean the surface and choose a smooth or textured caulk. The problem with chinking in your situation is that the joint size is too small and shallow to properly accept backer rod. If done correctly some manufactures offer life time warranties on their caulking products especially if the products are used in conjunction with their stains. For information on caulking please see the link below.
If you have any further questions regarding chinking, caulks or general application guidelines feel free to contact me at email@example.com.
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Hi Scott: thank you for your input. My bad, I used the word "chinking" when what I really meant was caulking. We CAULKED the first floor, and after several replies, we now know to also caulk the second floor log siding. We do have backer rod, and we in the process of getting the house all sealed up.
Thank you again
It sounds like you have received some pretty good advice. I would recommend a textured caulk for this type of joint because it should blend better with your wood and will probably be easier to apply than a smooth caulking. Finally, I would recommend taking a look at the Weatherall product line to accomplish this task. Please contact me if you have any other questions.
Hi John: Did not even know they made textured caulk! Where were you a couple of months ago? haha. No, thanks for the info.. We have already bought all the caulk, and are in the middle of getting the house sealed up. I see the house overall different from almost everyone. I love the look of the old 1800's Appalachia log homes/ with the split rail fences. So I am trying to make our new log home look 200 years old. For the weathering out of the exterior wood.. Finally found ferrous sulfate.. bought a 30.00 bag, and it could do our whole house over twice and still have plenty left over. It grays the wood out, also is an mild insect repellent and wood preservative. I researched for months! So far so good. Anyway thanks again!