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Soundproofing rooms
Anyone do anything to soundproof any of their interior rooms? Specifically anything with mass loaded vinyl acoustic barrier?
We'd like to soundproof the wall between a bedroom and the greatroom. We have 3/4 vmatch (pine) on the outside, 2x4 studs with 3 1/2 fiberglass batt betweent the studs and will then have another layer of 3/4 vmatch on the inside. We've thought of adding a 1 lb strip of MLV http://www.soundisolationstore.com/mass-loaded-vinyl-mlv-1-lb.html between the stud and the vmatch, but just curuious if anyone has had any experience in doing this.
If not, anything else to try and keep the noise down in your place?
Views: 194
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Glenn V on -
That's a good question and one that I'm also interested in for your responses. I know a couple cheaper tricks was insulating the wall which you did and also if any sheet rock to double up on the sheet rock and alternate the seams. Although I know there are products out there for this, some are a little pricey.
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Permalink Reply by Bill Ward on -
We are doing the same thing right now, but it is in the lower level.
We commented to eachother that we also need to insulate and seal the
joists above the ceiling before we finish it - and maybe the ceiling.
Bill
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Permalink Reply by Joe on -
I think you'll find Glenn's advice about doubling the dry wall if feasible would be better then spending money for the super sound insulating material. The sound actually transfers through the attachment of the 2 x 4 to both walls so putting wall board on the studs then the finish boards helps to dampen it. If you were to be fanatical about it you use 2 sets of slightly offset outward studs (only touch one wall) with one wall attached to one set and the other wall to its own set thus no interconnection.
Kind of reminds me of the first cell phones. Two soup cans with a string in between. You want to eliminate the string.
Back to reality. Make sure you consider the door and ductwork. Sound sneaks around looking for any escape route. A solid door with a seal on the bottom really helps. You can line the duct with sound absorbing foam and/or provide each duct with its own chase rather then T in to one common duct.
Unfortuanetly those great looking tongue and grove, second floor, 2 x 6 pine floors love to transmit sound down to the ceiling underneath. Only carpeting seems to help that problem.
Joe
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Permalink Reply by Tim Bullock on -
You have gotten some good advice thus far but will add my 1 1/2 cents worth. We have used raw tar board between floors on top of the 2" X 6" decking material and then strap over to accept the finished flooring base or finished floor if it is hardwood. It is very effective. You could put a layer on your studs, strap and then apply the v-joint.....It would add 1 1/4" to your wall thickness.
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Permalink Reply by Greg Beck on -
Call me stupid, but what does Tim mean when he says ( Strap over ) ??
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Permalink Reply by Tim Bullock on
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Greg, You put on the soundboard and then nail 1" X 3" over or 1" X 4" ......24" o/c to nail the t&g on.
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Permalink Reply by Chris Wood on -
We have had decent luck on floors with AcoustiGuard products from Ontario. Their 1/2" thick mat material is glued down and the finished floor is glued whenever possible. Sound travels thru nails and screws. The fewer the better. The double 2x offset stud wall addresses this issue.
The sprayfoam products on interior walls are great. And cost can be spread out when they come and tighten up rest of home (crawl space, attic, cricket roofs, gable ends, dormers, etc.).
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Permalink Reply by The Mitchell's on -
Thanks for all the thoughts everyone, we still haven't decided what to do, if anything. Too bad you couldn't see how loud things are going to be and then go back and add more if needed!
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