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     When building your subfloor you should not rely on the plate insulation or wood to wood to prevent air infiltration from happening. Rim joists and plates are a big source of air infiltration of homes. There are many different ways to seal these areas, including caulking, rubber gaskets, foam seals, closed  cell spray insulation, house wrap, and maybe more that I didn't mention. As of other posts, I post this so you can know of it and do further research if desired. Also follow local building codes. It was not often done because of the extra time involved, it was thought that it wasn't needed and also adverse weather such as rain would prevent caulking or adhesive seals to stick to the wood or cement foundation delaying construction. You should run a continual bead of caulk between the plate and the basement walls or foundation close to the outside. The rim joists should also be caulked on the bottom between it and the plate. Between the top side of the rim joist and subfloor you can use a continual bead of adhesive used on the joists to prevent squeaks on the subfloor. Also caulk where rim joists butt together. The space between the joists on the rim joist should be insulated. If your subfloor or home is already built, spraying closed cell foam will seal and insulate the spaces between the joists on the rim joists. This space also can be susseptible to mold because of temperature change and higher humidity in basements. Making your home tight from air infiltration will require an air exchange system to bring in fresh air and expel inside air. I hope this will help so people can save on heating  and cooling their homes making the planet a little greener.

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After thinking about this, as its been a few years since I was around construction, I do remember a couple homes done that way.
Your right about the open web joists Tim, but they can make it difficult doing the panning for cold air returns when going with forced air. A real pain in the tush. But there is always ways to get things done. With the open web floor joists, they can be designed/engineered with chases for the duct work and plumbing, leaving all mechanicals inside/ between the joists making it easy to finish off the ceiling for all of the basement.
I probably miss titled my post as I ment it on how to seal and insulate the rim joists, but you are right Tim as I have been in quit a few stick built homes with engineered joists that the floors would bounce, some so bad that it would almost give you motion sickness. I guess I am a little confused also on joist positioning as almost every home I have ever been in the joists all run one direction with the few exceptions of additions, dropped floors, or monster homes with rooms going off in different directions, but I know what you mean, if a joist on one end of the home would be parallel to the rim joist and end up close to it and have seen that before also, that it makes it difficult if not impossible to run an outside faucet, duct for heating - A/C and also insulate it properly. If using a forced air furnace it would be easier for the joists to all run one direction. I don't think engineered joists are a bad thing as long as they are sturdy enough to not bounce. I don't like bouncing floors either.

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