Stillwater, MN's Discussions

Replied Nov. 22, 2008

Started this discussion. Last reply by Kelly Nov. 23, 2008.

Stillwater, MN's Page

At 12:10am on February 22, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Permachink is fine as long as you are using one of their water-based finishes. I don't think they have a flat option. There is no problem using the Weatherall product over the top as a clear coat. So get the Permachink color and then top it with Weatherall UV Guard flat clear.

Don't mix it with color and try to put it on. Rather, just put on the color and put this on as a last coat.

You'll need to know your square footage for the Permachink stuff as well as the Weatherall. As with most finishes, its cheaper to buy in 5 gallon buckets, though cheap is relative. It'll be over $200 for five gallons, something fairly close to the cost of the Permachink stuff.

Hope this works out for you.

Bob

At 10:34pm on February 20, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Hi

You can go ahead and color the logs. Its when you apply the clear coat that you can satinize or flat coat the color coats. The product is from Weatherall, and I forget what its called but it is their flat clear finish. I don't know if there are any distributors in your area, and the cold weather, if you're having it these days, might mean you have to wait awhile to get it delivered.

I get all my material from Weatherall NW, in Hamilton MT. Their number is 1-800-531-2286. You can buy it from them and avoid the sales tax. They'll drop ship it from the plant in Indiana. Tell whoever answers (Jan, Susan or Mark) that ChinkerBob sent you and they'll be extra nice.

Forgot to ask. What are you using for stain? Water or oil based? I hope its water because this stuff will work best over it. Let me know what you're using and I'll see what sort of information I have to give you.

Also, how many square feet are you staining, and how flat do you want the final finish? Flat flat flat or satin.

Bob

Bob

Bob

At 11:12pm on February 1, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Hi

My experiment failed. I was trying to get rid of the color without darkening the logs much, and the two colors I chose did virtually nothing to the color. I couldn't even take pictures with a noticeable difference in them. You might be able to go darker, but that will be your only choice.

Hope whatever you do works. My efforts were for naught.

Here is one picture where you an almost tell the difference. The color is slightly grayer in the middle of the log, a strip about three inches wide. The other color I chose did absolutely nothing at all...

At 9:09pm on January 30, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Hi

I've finished with my experimental stain log. I was hoping for better results. One of the two colors I tried on the orange stain muted the orange a bit, the other one did nothing. I'm hoping I can get a picture in good light tomorrow to show you what happened.

Don't know if you would want to try it though. It was indeed hard to keep the new color from running, and I had to keep brushing so much I thought I would end up with brush marks. I didn't though. Just don't know how hard it would be to put the new color on your finished wall.

The nice thing is that it mutes the orange but doesn't darken the logs. That would have to be a plus.

Tomorrow will be my first quiet day in weeks, so I'll get the pictures taken outside in the morning in hopes of being able to photograph the difference between the two colors.

Have you gotten the Permachink stuff to try yet?

Bob

At 6:57pm on January 28, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Hello

I told you I would be speaking to a painter/chinker who has much more experience in stains that I do. I finally tracked him down and asked him about your situation. He didn't tell me what I expected.

He has his doubts, not because the material won't adhere, but because he is concerned that you won't be able to evenly brush the color, or avoid brush marks. This is especially important since you are trying to change colors. Since the new color won't be adhering to the wood but rather the stain, and especially since your stain is in such good condition, it might even tend to bead up rather than brush out. This would not be good.

He said the only right way to do it if you want to change colors is to sand it down.

So you're back to either just chinking, which won't change the log color but will brighten up the walls, or sanding things down.

You might be able to find a material that does spread out evenly, and I'll still try this evening on the log I've already stained something close to the original color, but the chances for success may be slim.

I'll be writing this up in the discussion where this came up. I have apologies to give to Kelly, who called it right.

At 12:53pm on January 28, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: I know you don't want orange but I'm trying to start with a log that matches yours so I can change things from there. Glad to hear you're experimenting too. Something should come out of this.

Bob

At 12:09pm on January 28, 2009, ChinkerBob said…: Hi

My efforts to get the log sample as orange as yours when I photograph it hasn't quite panned out. I of course want the color close so that when I try changing colors we can both see what it is going to look like. The Permachink dealer is 20 miles north of me and I'm working 20 mile south right now.

Don't give up. I haven't. I'll be trying something else today.

Bob