"The indoor humidity should be kept around 40 to 45% and burning with wood often causes things to dry and crack (beams, flooring, skin) when humidity is not controlled. Especially up high where air is not circulating? Get a humidistat and maybe a…"
"Thomas, my bad. I see it has already been 2-3 years since application and his logs are likely now ready for blasting. I should have read the initial posting more carefully.
Incidentally, I don't sell decks or gutters.…"
"Relax. No need for a split decision. If you like the color of the deck stain on the logs, live with it until it wears thin and redo in 2-3 years. If your home has the more important attributes like good overhangs, porches on weather side, gutters…"
"Jim, some people need to do themselves (and us industry folks) a favor and buy existing. Building something new and special takes guts, resources, patience, vision and trust. These virtues don't come easy. Why this thread has even been allowed…"
"No more settling to worry about in Montana with arid climate and snow loads after maybe 2 to 3 years of completion. In the most humid of climates with HVAC, maybe 3-4 years.
With all additions, whether stick, stone, log or straw, best…"
"This is more for entertainment than the chance to sell you anything. In 1987, we built a $100 per day penalty into our contracts ( in addition to the money back guarantee we still maintain). Only one in the industry to put our money where our mouth…"
As a builder and manufacturer, you come across as a client I'd rather avoid. Sorry. But, you haven't vested in the land yet, you want schedule commitments 4 to 6 months before delivery (when things in residential can and do change…"
"Tighten up your joist spacing and stay away from concealed fasteners. The 6" wide trex type of material needs drilled and face screwed, or it will cup and wiggle loose. Go look at a deck that is 10 years old and see if it's what you…"
"Cut a plywood radius template for the curved logs and use it to cut the foam with a 2" long utility blade. Toe nail, or staple it with 2" staples diagonally into the window trim or logs, or jambs. The chink will hold the rest tight."
"If you are blasting down to bare wood, use an after blast product to help seal the open pores before the ultra-7 application. It will provide a more consistent color and will help make the ultra-7 stick better ."
"Looks like this stiffener was also carrying the weight of the shed dormer wall, somewhat. It looks to me that you CAN put a window where you've drawn it. But the other wall to the left of the stairs will then substitute for the…"
"Without exterior pic of the initial wall "stiffener", I can't be 100% sure. First of all, the gable end 20' stiffener, or load bearing post must stay. It's There to stabilize wall and likely carry ridge. But the initial one…"
"When you said you called "a" log manufacturer, did you mean "the" manufacturer of your home? Go direct to the source. Get a set of plans and see if these were originally intended, or an afterthought. If you don't know the…"
VP Sales at Hearthstone and have been designing, manufacturing and building log and timber frame homes since 1984. Our company manages the entire process from sawmill operations, to vacuum kilns, to on-site construction to turnkey services.
Are you lucky enough to be living in a log home?
Timber frame, yeah.
What timeframe are you looking to start your dream home?
My wife and I are Italian, but we would like to build a log home in Long Branch Lakes, Spencer, TN. Mr. Volpe told me that your are highly experience, so I have a question for you. I have read during these months many specialized magazines and books on the pros and cons of building a true log home. What many owners wonder before building their homes is: is it better to build a conventional home covered with logs or to have a real log home? You know very well that wood is a living material subject to the attacks of insects or sun, reacting to cold and hot. So it can modify its structure during time. Therefore, I suppose that a real log home made with round or flat log inside or outside requires a periodical monitoring by specialized staff to verify possible infiltration among the logs and above all in the critical joint structures, like the roof intersection with the walls, making real problems of insulation. I suppose that these monitorings are expensive and you can well understand that to live with the nightmare that the home can undergo structural problems, it is not so good! I suppose that it will be very expensive to periodically re-apply the products to protect the wood or to call the staff for the monitoring. You can understand that I do not wish to spend my future life becoming slave of my home! On the contrary, besides the problem of re-application of the products for the wood, a covered conventional home doesn’t give structural problems: indeed, it is easier to replace a ruined flat plank or a half log inside or outside without compromising the structure of the home and its insulation.
Since I prefer to build a real log home, I ask you: is it better to build it with double D logs, Swedish logs, with saddle notch corner or with square logs with chink and doventail corner? Which one of the two kinds of logs give the best insulation?
Thank you very much for any suggestions you might have.
Pat Woody is my dad, Dad said he hopes Ernie is well hasn't seen or heard from him in some time. I wasn't around for the Knicely project I was helping the Marine Corps rebuild Iraq at the time but I made it back to Virginia and trying to take things over at Woody Wood Chinking. I hope we can stay in touch. Also would you like some pics. of some hearthstones weve worked on.