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Dave and Julie Christiansen 53, Male Bear Lake, Garden City, Utah United States: Share

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Borate Solution
3 Replies

Started this discussion. Last reply by Greg SWEETS Jun 22.

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Greg SWEETS replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Borate Solution'

wait until about 10 days after applying the shellguard and then do the log wash to make sure you get all the dust and dirt off the logs and any remaining borates that might be left on the logs.

June 22

Dave and Julie Christiansen replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Borate Solution'

Hi Greg: The Permachink guy told us to do the logwash 1st, so that is what we did. We then waited until the logs were dry and then applied the shieldguard, but the logs never felt sticky. That is what I was wondering about. Do I need to do another...

June 22

Greg SWEETS replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Borate Solution'

You will need to wait about 10 to 12 days before applying stain,before you apply the stain wash your house down with log wash,make sure its clean.You do not need to apply another coat of shellguard.To make sure the borates have penetrated touch yo...

June 22

Dave and Julie Christiansen added a discussion

Borate Sulution

Just a quick question. I just sprayed our log home with Permachink's Shield Guard borate. I used a 50/50 mixture with water and used a garden sprayer to apply it. I was told that it would feel sticky for a couple of days, but it doesn't feel stick...

June 21

Kelly replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Carpenter Bees Need Advise'

Good Afternoon Dave & Julie, Both Chris and Charis are correct about the wood boring bee. To apply the borate in where the larvae resides you can use a hyperdermic needle to apply in the wood. Apply a borate to the outside too! Again some insect...

May 26

Greg SWEETS replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Carpenter Bees Need Advise'

Like Chris said use a borate like shellguard ready to use.This will only work on bare wood so it can pentrate into the wood.The borate will not pentrate if there is a stain or wax on the surface.To check spray some water on the wood and if the wat...

May 26

CharisB replied to Dave and Julie Christiansen's discussion 'Carpenter Bees Need Advise'

Chris - great links. I send homeowners there myself often. Dave - be aware that the borate will work on the live beetles but you'll need to make sure there aren't any larvae in the wood. The larvae can be killed by the borate, too, but only if it...

May 26

Jimbo left a comment for Dave and Julie Christiansen

We want to see what we are dealing with first. Inject a hole with water, tap on the outside of the log, anything to disturb the insect and cause them to show themselves. It is best if you can get them totally out of the hole. Take a picture of the...

May 26

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Tell us about yourself:: Julie and I are building our log home ourselves. It will be our retirement home. We are paying as we go, with no mortgage. Hard work, but rewarding too. Once it is finished and we move in, it will be like Heaven on Earth :)

Are you lucky enough to be living in a log home?: working on it lol

What timeframe are you looking to start your dream home?: Within 12 months

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At 8:33am on May 26, 2009, Jimbo said…: We want to see what we are dealing with first. Inject a hole with water, tap on the outside of the log, anything to disturb the insect and cause them to show themselves. It is best if you can get them totally out of the hole. Take a picture of them and e-mail me at jimd@logswork.com. I am not an entomologist. I am a contractor who works on log homes to seal and finish them. Next, with the same syringe, inject the hole with a water and borate mix. You can get borate from a log home supply store. Mike Carey from Mtn. Home Building Products is near you. Google him on the web. Completely saturate the holes with the mix. That should start the process of taking care of your problem. Don't be surprised to see more evidence of insects. Again, the most likely scenario is the insects are finding their way out so they are nothing more than a nuisance. The picture you take should give us the information we need to tell you what you are dealing with. Good luck.

At 1:37pm on May 23, 2009, Jimbo said…: The primary reason for standing dead timber in the western states is "beetle kill". Adult beetles bore under the bark of live pine and spruce trees to lay their eggs. As the eggs hatch, the larvae feed off the cambium and sapwood until the tree dies. Not all eggs hatch at the same time. Some take up to 2-5 years to hatch. Dead trees provide no nutrition so the beetles take up residence in the next live pine or spruce and the process continues. What you are most likely seeing is the migration of beetles out of the dead wood in search of nutrition. They are no longer interested in your logs. You can take care of your problem by spraying a borate mixture right into the exit holes while you are treating the rest of your logs. Doctor your stain with a mildewcide and that will have an effect on them also. It make take some time to get all of them out but they will leave. If it is important to identify the beetles, check out my book, Log Home Care and Maintenance. There are some other helpful hints in there for other aspects of your project. Good luck.

At 11:24pm on May 22, 2009, Jimbo said…: Dave and Julie,
Coming to the discussion late and not checking previous posts for other information. Are you building in Utah? Where are the logs from?
If your logs are from standing dead timber, you most likely are dealing with a non-reinfesting beetle. In other words, the insects are escaping, not setting up housekeeping. That is the most likely scenario.
You can spray the galleries with the borates, you can saturate them with an oil based stain. With some more information about your log package, we can probably narrow down your problem.
Sealing and maintaining your log home will alleviate most of your problems.

At 11:54am on May 19, 2009, Craigmandu said…: Thank you for the information. I noticed you used larger logs than what I probably will (due to back issues and easibility of managing the logs)....if you don't mind me asking (sorry I'm extremely new to this), about what did the logs cost per ln/ft? I've done all sorts of looking online and have found them to be in the 5.50 - 6 dollar range for the size I'm considering.

Did you guys cut the corner notches out yourself or buy them pre-cut for the corners???? I'm trying to think in my mind if I'd rather go with that cope you have or with a slotted type of log.

I noticed you put in radiant heat which is awesome.

Thanks for all the info.
Craig

At 9:08pm on May 18, 2009, Craigmandu said…: Wow, I'm really impressed with your pictures and your effort in realizing this beautiful home. I'm just starting down this road and hope to get a spot of land within the next 2 years and starting my initial research.

Did you guys buy logs from a wholesaler? Or is that a kit? I love the look of that home, if you have more information on that particular home, I'd like to see it. Especially the floor plan.
Thanks,

Craigmandu

At 12:00pm on April 24, 2009, CharisB said…: Hi, Dave. I emailed that report today. Let me know if you don't receive it for some reason.

Have a nice weekend!

At 11:12pm on April 21, 2009, CharisB said…: For some reason I can't find your email address. Can you shoot it to me and I'll get it to you? I have your mailing address but figured I'd get the report to you faster via email. Thanks!

At 11:12am on April 21, 2009, CharisB said…: Hey, Dave & Julie. Hope your project is coming along. Again - what a view you have! I catch a glimpse of mountain ranges from my front porch here in Denver and it makes me want to move to them....

Hey - I have a study I can send to you regarding borate penetration in water- vs. glycol-carried preservatives. It wasn't done by us but I think the information is very helpful. Let me know if you'd like a copy and I'll email it your way.

Happy Tuesday!

At 9:23pm on April 1, 2009, Greg Beck said…: Hi Guy's
Didn't I read that you buillt your deck framing out of untreated lumber ? I wanted to do that because the # 1 treated I used cost me about 6.5 G's just for the base & floor, we had over 100 joist, 28 post, not to mention ban boards and rim boards, I could have saved a small fortune going with yellow pine for joist, but every one said don't do it, I thought I could sray water proofing on them as well, did you just not know you should use treated, how did that happen ? I almost did it that way as ours is covered too, I bet it will last just fine covered an water proofed, but I'm not a proffesional carpenter, everyone thought
I was nuts.

At 11:29am on March 17, 2009, CharisB said…: Glad to hear from you! Whatever I can do to help provide just educational info, let me know. Permachink makes good stains so, one way or the other, you'll have your home well-protected. I'm more here to answer questions so whatever pops to mind, shoot me a comment or email and I'll do my best to answer it. It'll be fun to watch everything continue to come together. :-)