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Steps to Restore an Old Wooden Floor

Aging is something that happens to everything. As a result, certain attractive qualities are lost in the process of aging. Old wooden floors, for example, can lose their gloss, shine and appeal over time.


Do not despair though. Renewing your old hard wooden floor may be easier and more affordable than you initially thought. Unlocking a wooden floor’s beauty does not always have to involve staining and heavy, messy sanding.


These steps will explain some steps of how to restore an old wooden floor:

Clean and Dust the Floor

First things first; make up your mind. After you have made up your mind to redo your wooden floor, be prepared for some hardcore DIY.


Remove all the furniture in the room, spray the wooden floor with a hardwood floor cleaner. If you wish to use a natural floor cleaner, mix about 10 part water to 1 part white vinegar.

With this mixture, carefully wipe the floor and remember to wrap the towel around a mop head that you are using.


Always ensure that windows, doors and other openings are closed. Closing them will prevent dust from entering the room and landing on your clean floor.

Prepare the Perimeter:

Use something like 180-grit sandpaper; sand the perimeter and any nooks the buffer cannot reach.


After this, rub gently 4 to 6 inches out from the baseboard and do not stop until a powder forms.


Do not use a sanding block if you are trying to refinish a hardwood; this might miss uneven spots in the floor, and all your efforts will become a fruitless-endeavor.


Prepping the perimeter is one of the essential steps you need to take.

Scuff-Sand the Finish:

During this stage of floor sanding; stick a maroon buffing pad to your buffer. Do not forget to put on the dusk mask, move barrier from side to side over the floor, and make sure the directions are of the grain and overlap each course by 6inches.


As you move forward, the old finish will turn to powder; hence, you can easily see the areas you have covered.


Keep the buffer moving but ensure to stop every 5 to 10 mins so that you can vacuum the pad.

On the average stop every 5 minutes to vacuum pad; this is the standard procedure if you wish to obtain the best outcome.


Vacuum and Tack:

Leave the floor for 15 to 20 minutes; this is done so that the powder can settle.

Put the filter in the vacuum, sweep with felt-bottomed attachment and work in line with the flooring strips.


After doing these, sweep across them to get the powders that are left in-between the boards.

Dry with a microfiber cloth; the dry-tacking should be pushed with the grain.

Cut in along edges and Roll out the Poly:

This step is the last. Carefully cover your shoes, nose, and mouth.

Now, strain the finish via a cone filter into the clean plastic can and remove the sprinkler head.

Pour some strained finish into a smaller plastic container and brush a 3-inch wire stripe beside the baseboards.


The brushings should be done at a point farthest from the exit door. If the edge of the strips starts to dry, it will leave lap marks on the floor. To avoid this, ensure you stop after 10mins and move on to the next stage after this timeframe.


If you wish to roll out, use a long-handled roller with a 1/4 inch nap cover. Roll out the finish with grain, and do the same across.


Work quickly and overlap each pass after every 10mins; brush the edges more when you are rolling out the poly and roll again for 10mins.


Do not stop this process until the floor is covered; also wait for 3hrs before redecorating the storey (The Old House, 2017).


After a week or more, you can then start putting back furniture.


If all this seems like to hard work, call in the experts. Firms like Electrodry specialise in sanding and polishing. If you are anything like me, you would be happy to hand this job over to someone else to do!

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