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Boric acid solutions on kiln dried logs....is it worth it?????

I've heard it both ways....some say it's smart to spray a product like Boracare onto the exterior of your logs before you stain and finish them. Others are telling me it's a waste of money since the insect larva is supposedly killed in the drying process.

I just want to make sure "new" insects will gag when they get a bite of my logs!!!!!! I have a Crockett Log home nearing completion this fall and just want some sound advise???

Thanks

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Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 20, 2008 at 9:41am: It is very important to make sure you SANATIZE and PRESERVE your logs against becoming a food source for insects, fungus, and decay. You are correct that you have had your wood sanitized by having it kiln dried. However, unless you apply a preservative (commonly a borate product) your logs could become the target of something wanting to use it for lunch.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Dianne on August 23, 2008 at 10:22am: As I said elsewhere, I favor having the borates applied prior to delivery. I feel that "pressure treat" is the key word. Those borates need to be absorbed deeply into the logs.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 28, 2008 at 7:40pm: I couldn't agree more with Dianne. Pressure treated wood is the ONLY way to sanitize and prevent reinfestation in your log home. The borates are a natural, and clear product, that leaves the natural look of the wood for you to stain and seal over later. Most companys that pressure treat also offer a warranty against rot, decay, and insects. Those that do not pressure treat will not offer this type of warrany. Make sure you look at these services along with the borate treatment.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Joe on August 23, 2008 at 10:38am: From what I have learned the definition of kiln drying itself can vary depending on temperature and time. Some claim to kiln dry right to the core, others to a measured depth of about 1 1/2. This then can have an effect on what is "killed". The important part is that this is about as dry as the logs are going to get and they will start to reabsorb water to balance to outside moisture. Because of this I personally would want the logs treated immediately which would then ensure the whole log gets treated, not just the outside where its difficult to get into the joints once assembled. You can always possibly add more chemical treatment to the stain as further insurance.

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Permalink Reply by gatorgene on August 24, 2008 at 6:23pm: To continue this, should the interior wall studs, subfloor be borate treated as well?

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Permalink Reply by Rob Romine on August 28, 2008 at 7:42pm: Really depends on where you are building. You definately want to use a pressure treated band board on your foundation, and treat the soil before you build. However, formosan termites in the Gulf States of Southern US are very good at getting past exterior barriers and into the inside of your home. I suggest checking your local codes, and take a look at common building practices in your area.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by Joy Mulkern on August 24, 2008 at 8:53pm: Some companies, Barna for sure, both borate dip before they ship the logs to you as well as provide and additional borate product, Penetreat, to apply again on the outside before you apply your exterior stain. Don't skimp on the borate and your logs should last forever.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by gatorgene on September 1, 2008 at 7:25pm: Do you need borate on Cypress? I dont know of any Cypress manufacturers that pressure treat with Borate. Comments?

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Permalink Reply by Kevin on September 16, 2008 at 4:44pm: All Log species are vulnerable to wood boring or consuming insects. Some are more naturally resistant than others. If you are building in an area with a known insect problem (termites or carpenter ants) then there are preventative measures to reduce or eliminate that threat. Concrete exposure is one. Pretreating the soil around the foundation is another. Logs dipped or sprayed with borates are one thing, but what about other wood products around your log home that were not treated with a borate solution. Additionally, factors controlling borate concentration in the core of the log or board are: species, preservative, loading, diffusion time, and green moisture content. If a log is not allowed to be immersed in a borate solution of the proper concentration, at the proper temperature, for a long enough period, the expected level or longetivity of protection may be much less than anticipated. I would suggest taking the same precautions as you would on a conventional home to guard against insect damage. I do not think I would purchase a log home package based on the borate virtue alone. A truely kiln-dried log will be free of insects, which is the primary reason for borate treatments. I believe a more reliable approach to preserving a log home is in prevention and proper maintenence of the exterior, to protect it from the potential damaging effects of the sun, moisture (mold & mildew), and insects.; ▶ Reply to This

Permalink Reply by gatorgene on November 15, 2008 at 3:21pm: Ive read where pretreated borate can be washed off by the rain prior to staining and sealing the logs.
Thus, more confusion. Do you pressure treat alone, or redo the surface once the logs are erected?
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